One of my partner's favourite things are shirts. I mean good quality, beautiful fabric, well made shirts with proper collars and cuffs and general yumminess. I bought him a gorgeous black shirt covered in red and green chillis for his birthday one year and he thrashed it until he went on a health kick and lost almost 30kg. Kind of a win win situation, but he doesn't get to wear the beautiful chilli shirt any more. He's bought some amazing shirts from Anton's, but they're heinously expensive, and although they're well made, they're usually very simple designs but done in gorgeous fabrics with a bit of delicious detailing.
And I thought, "I bet I could do that".
So I bought a basic shirt pattern. I couldn't find one with proper French cuffs, but apparently it's quite easy to make them - you just double the existing cuff pattern and put an extra button hole in. Oh and (thanks to my friend Damien for pointing this out) you interface the opposite side... and voila. Pop in your favourite cufflinks and you're smokin.
The only real issue was getting a good durable interfacing going for the cuffs and collar. Apparently the regular stuff you get from the stores doesn't hold up too well after a few washes. So I did a bit of experimentation.
I bought a few bits and pieces. One was a fusible mesh-like interfacing with stitching to reinforce and stablise it - this is to stop the piece from being stretched. I think if you were really keen you could use two layers and cross them.
I also bought a roll of paper with interfacing glue on it. I'm sure that isn't what it's called, but that's basically what it is. You iron it on to the fabric, then stick your sew-in interfacing on it, and it becomes fused.
I needed this because the final layer was exactly what I wanted except that it was sew-in rather than fusible. I didn't want to risk the collar looking bubbly or puffy so I really wanted it fused - and this was the answer. The photo above shows the paper being pulled off, showing the greyish fusible stuff underneath. Behind for reference is a plain piece of fabric. Picture below shows the woven interfacing which I then ironed on to this.
So. Take one layer of your chosen fabric. I'm using poplin for this one, it was my test shirt. Fuse the paper two sided gluey stuff onto this, and fuse the woven interfacing on to it. Then fuse the sewn/reinforced interfacing on top of this.
I made a little square and ran it through the wash a few times. Came out looking pretty good.
Time will tell on this one. I'll update with how it holds up in a few weeks' or months' time.
I hope this is a help to other people starting sewing out there - I'm finding the interfacing thing quite difficult - there seems an almost infinite range of products available and it seems no two stores stock the same thing, so I'm trying to share my knowledge here as I accumulate it. :)


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